I am going to give PollDaddy a test whirl here to see how it behaves before I post up a poll to MP.com thread. Have wanted to give this thing a try since seeing it a few weeks ago on TechCrunch.
While shopping around for a new set of technical cams (i.e., small) to supplement my eight or so year old run of Metolius TCU’s 00-3 the question, ‘whose technical cams reign supreme’, came to mind. I primarily climb in Eldorado Canyon and Front Range areas. Initially, I leaned towards the new Metolius Master Cam as much out of brand loyalty as wanting the latest in single stem technology. I bought a 1-Blue to test drive and liked it, but in the mean time a voice in my head keeps telling me these are good cams, but something else might be better.
To appease the nerd in me I dumped the raw available numbers (i.e., range, strength, weight) into an Excel spreadsheet and started calculating. BD C3s are the clear winner on weight and CCH Aliens hold the upper hand for both strength and range.
This MP.com thread has strength and weight chart images.
Note: I wasn’t able to figure out how to use Excel to come up with a nice looking cam min/max range floating bar chart so if someone could pave the way great! Download the Excel spreadsheet if you wanna give it a go.
I couldn’t find any numbers for head width to gauge how deeply cams need to be placed for all lobes to engage. Further, I don’t have a clue about cam physics. How does cam lobe shape and design impact holding power in sub optimal placements (e.g., tipped out vs. over camed)?
Enlighten me. I am more interested in hard numbers then nieve allegiance/bias towards a particular product. Granted CCH has had QC issues, but their base numbers on paper look good from a non scientific view point.
I just updated the CMS for the website late last week and just realized shortly after that none of the permalinks were working correctly. A little research along with some elbow grease fixed the problems and things are back to normal. Also, it’s been a long hiatus since I last posted. Hopefully, I get into a rythmn of regular posts again.
As a volunteer and all around fun open source web app project I have been working on enhancing the Leadville Trail 100 race series reporting capabilities. I competed in the Silver Rush 50 MTB last year and was quickly hooked by the compelling high altitude scenery. From the course to the competitors it was an all around blast. It shouldn’t have come as a surprise to me, but this project has been a blast too.
It’s been almost three full months now since I have switched my main home PC to a Mac. In a word I am very happy with the switch. The general consensus was the Dell Latitude D620 laptop that my wife and I were sharing for a year and three months was becoming a burden not necessarily in performance, but mainly in that we had to “share” it. On most nights when we both needed to use the laptop I would use my work laptop which was usually at home plugged in in the evenings.
Have been busy the last few days making some minor modifications to the site. Improvements include shaping up the primary menu, adding resume in PDF format, making sense of the about page, fixing various broken HTML pieces, validate XHTML, and adding some underlying WordPress plugins to banish SPAM from the comments (i.e., very few comments on the site so far and zero SPAM, but better safe then sorry).
For over a year I have been working on a redesign of my local parish website, Holy Trinity Catholic Church. I have put in some heavy time here and there, but nothing consistent. We are building a blog style site founded on the Drupal CMS with tag categories for Church bulletin, religious education, news flashes, some ad hoc material and static content for things like maps, parish committees, school events, etc…
For my friend Todd Langley and anyone else in need of a list of exercises for rotator cuff conditioning with a slant towards the rock climber.
Key assumption is you can find a modern athletic facility with a well equipped weight room.

About six weeks ago I decided as long as my summer was a wash climbing wise due to my ongoing elbow injury I might as well sign up for a mountain bike race. I was initially interested in the Leadville 100, but you have to put in your application for the race lottery draw six months in advance of the race. Given my mediocre conditioning at the time it was logical that I enter the Leadville SilverRush 50. I emailed Rob Woolf and the rest of the mountain bike crew about the potential impending race and within a few weeks six of us were signed up. The night I mailed the application I was a mental wreck as it dawned on me I had never been in any sort of race and my training regime would need to be stepped way up.
The new mountain bike toys finally arrived about a month ago and I dropped the whole kit and kaboodle off at Wheat Ridge Cyclery at their brand new store. Seeing how it had been two years since last servicing the bike it was not cheap, but a needed full tune up. Once home the only difficulty was setting up the Garmin Edge 350 cadence/speed sensor component that I promptly managed to break while removing the rear tire to clean the cassette. $60s later and a week later the replacement part was in and I was ready to ride.
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